This article is an extract from the Guardian’s Feast newsletter, featuring exclusive writing from Yotam Ottolenghi, Rachel Roddy, Felicity Cloake and more – sign up here to get the full newsletter straight to your inbox every Thursday
I learned something new about Laxmidas Sodha, my grandfather, while spending time with my parents over Christmas. He didn’t have an easy life, but he didn’t make life easy for himself, either. After surviving poverty, the death of his wife during childbirth and being kicked out of Uganda by Idi Amin, he chose not to go to the wedding of his beloved son (my dad) on principle, because my mum’s family ate meat.
It’s strange to have this in the back of my mind coming into Veganuary, a time when we choose to divide ourselves by how we eat. This division, plants v meat, puts people on opposite sides of the table, and can make it feel as if there’s some battle to be won. But I have a radical suggestion: there isn’t.
We’re all on the same side, really, and we all (by and large) care about the same things – good food, our health, the environment and the welfare of animals. The bigger story isn’t whether you’re vegan or a meat eater, it’s about us all being part of a historical shift of millions of people who choose to eat less meat on a year-round basis.
And if eating less meat is the aim, Veganuary is a great tool for everyone. It’s a brilliant way to start a new relationship with food and let yourself experiment with new vegetables and flavours at a time when the path is relatively clear: there are no looming turkey dinners, and everyone from family and friends to the media, supermarkets and restaurants are in support.
Plus, if you can eat less meat in winter, when vegetables are not as plentiful, you can do it at any time of the year and, according to the research, you’ll be less likely to want to eat meat after Veganuary, too. Perhaps we’ll all then be one step closer to the good things: a more varied and delicious diet and, potentially, a better outlook for the environment.
Right, now on to some of my favourite recipes.
You’ll have to forgive me for skirting over breakfast – it’s the easiest of vegan meals, so just get yourself some good vegan milk and butter (I like Minor Figures oat milk and Naturli’ butter, though the latter can be tricky to find). For something more brunchy, meanwhile, there’s scrambled tofu covered with sriracha mayo – try mine, Felicity Cloake’s or Yotam Ottolenghi’s – or Anna Jones’s black bean tacos.
Lunch, for me, is usually leftovers soup or a big-energy salad. Good soup can be bought in, true, but if you’re making it yourself, I’ll give my mum’s beetroot soup a shoutout, as well as Ottolenghi’s lentil soup. For speedy WFH lunches, try a quick revitalising green pasta or this bulgur and pesto salad (swap the fresh tomatoes for chopped sun-dried ones and the green beans for savoy cabbage). I’ve always wanted to try Kali’s one-bowl noodles and now is my time. If homemade food isn’t an option, get yourself a supermarket picnic: hummus, good bread, olives, artichokes, nuts and seeds; add some ready-cooked beetroot or lentils, if you’re feeling fancy.
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On to the main event. At this time of year, I always recommend my sprout nasi goreng– it’s comforting and sprightly – carrot laksa and katsu curry (make a double batch of the sauce), because those are all things I want to eat. If you’re short on time, try these aubergines: the prep time is minimal and the oven does all the work. Or if speedy is what you want, I’d recommend these peanut, cabbage and gochujang noodles.
If you’re a big batch cooker (my husband, Hugh, is one), Felicity Cloake’s ragu looks great and Rachel Roddy’s winter minestrone is what I’ll be making (sans the parmesan rind). In the past year, I’ve embraced adding a tablespoon or two of nutritional yeast to add a savoury quality to my food. I also recommend doubling up this fennel, potato and artichoke stew – it doesn’t get boring – and there’s always dal. I’m making my Malaysian dal curry, but there are many other options.
If you have specific requests, you can email me at [email protected] and I’ll do my best to get back to you. Best of luck and many happy new starts to you all.
